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Oilpan Seal replacement, stripped thread repair

2/9/00 -- I noticed that the car was leaking even more oil than a British sports car is supposed to be leaking by default and decided to replace the pan gasket for starters. The PO told me that one of the bolt holes in the block had been stripped, so a leak from the oilpan made sense. I hope that my hunch pays off.

Crawling under the car, I located the missing 5/16" retaining bolt and noted the stripped threads in the block. Members of the Spitfire list recommended a few different approaches, but Joe Curry's response got my attention. Joe wrote "Two words... Heli coil."

I drove over to Car Quest -- a small parts store in nearby Poway, but among the better places I've been for customer service. Mike explained to me how the Heli-coil kit works: First, you choose the correct kit based on the original thread size. Next, you drill out the hole using the next closest (but larger) drill bit size. Mike suggested spraying WD-40 up there to blast out loose metal flakes and to lubricate the opening for the next step. The kit contains a tap which you insert and turn into the hole to create threads for the small metal coil that you use a special tool to insert inside the opening.

The entire procedure took about 20 minutes to complete. When I was finished, a new set of 5/16" threads -- the stripped hole has been repaired! The only drawback to the kit is that it costs over $30 (but it does come with several spare coils). If I ever accidentally strip any 5/16" threads, at least I'll be prepared.

3/21/00 -- Just a heads up that my seal attempt failed miserably. I made the mistake of not using some sort of a gasket compound to seal the oilpan, and it leaks just as badly as before. Bummer. Even though the workshop manual doesn't specify anything other than the gasket, be sure to use a non-hardening compound like Permatex #2 when swapping your gasket -- and don't overtighten those bolts! I'm not in the mood to go through this adventure again for awhile, but before too long, I'll be ordering a new gasket and making another run at it, making certain that both surfaces are clean and that I have a good bead of sealent running around the entire gasket perimeter.

5/24/00 -- Well, this past weekend, enough oil had dripped all over my garage floor and driveway to give me the incentive I needed to redo the gasket again! As it turns out, by not using a gasket compound the first time, I made the leak worse than the original one I was trying to eliminate. I ended up using non-hardening Permatex 2, creating a double seal on both sides of the gasket -- one on the inside of the bolt holes and the other on the outside of them. I suppose that one, thick layer right down the middle would have worked as good or better. Despite a cut and bruise I received over my left eye when my socket wrench slipped and clocked me one, the operation was a success. Very little oil leaks now. Oh, I still have a drop or two, but it could be coming from anywhere -- but not likely the oil pan....

TIP: Oil shoots out of the oil pan plug hole a good 8"-10" when you first remove the drain plug. Keep this in mind when placing your oil catcher. Also, when handling a slippery socket wrench above your face, keep your mouth closed. If something falls, the worst you'll end up with is a fat lip -- not chipped teeth! Keep lots of pairs of Latex gloves on hand for this job -- it's messy!

Please. Always wear your seatbelt while driving -- and that goes double for your children if you have any.

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